Now, before you let your mind go where it shouldn’t, this Ronda is not a woman. Ronda was the next city we visited in Spain. It is a place of stunning beauty, but it is a deeply divided city. The water of the Guadalevin River separates the city as it runs through the basin of El Tajo Gorge more than 300 feet below the ancient city.
Jesus, in his Sermon on the Mount, talked about a city that is set on a hill and cannot be hidden. Ronda is such a city. It is clearly visible from below and from far away. Ronda sits high on the hills on both sides of the canyon. I did fall in love with the beautiful city, but I was careful not fall off the city because it sits right on the edge of the cliffs. Some of the white Andalusian houses back right up to the edge of the canyon, giving those inhabitants spectacular scenes of grandeur out their back doors.
For many years the only way to cross from one side of the gorge to the other was to descend down steep rocky cliffs, cross the river and climb back up the other side. If family lived on the other side, obviously, they didn’t visit one another much, if at all. Finally, way back in 1735, using stones quarried from the canyon itself, a bridge that spanned the canyon was successfully built. We walked across the bridge to the other side, but not the original bridge. It collapsed only six years after it was completed, killing 50 people. The new bridge that we crossed was built in 1793. To put this in some perspective, even the new bridge is almost as old as our young nation!
Standing on top of the new bridge I looked at the remnants of the original bridge and prayed that they knew why it collapsed and that history would not repeat itself! Seeing the beautiful city that clings to the cliffs above the rocky ravine and the rambling river deep below was well worth the trip and the risk. The views are so stunning that Ernest Hemmingway and Orson Wells were both part-time residents of Ronda. I think I found some inspiration to write there, too!
Ronda is believed by many to be the birthplace of modern-day bullfighting. I’ve never run with the bulls in Spain, but I have run from a bull in Alabama! I’ve never been to a bullfight, but I did see the arena in Ronda where it happens. Bull (toro) fighting is now highly controversial and is another thing that divides the city. It still happens, but not frequently, and tickets can cost as much as 1,000 euros.
After enjoying lunch at a nice sidewalk café, we had gelato just down the street. We strolled through the beautiful Alameda del Tajo park, built in 1806. The wide walking paths are paved with colorful tiles, but my favorite ones were constructed with small stones, like smooth river rocks. My favorite part of the park was at the far end where I gazed at the wide panoramic view of the canyon and it walls and heard guitar music. I followed the sound to track down the musician. I thought I had heard two or three guitars, but it was all from one gifted Spanish guitarist named Eugen. The bus did not leave me, but I may have listened too long! I bought one of Eugen’s CDs, which has become my new favorite.
Help me Ronda, because I do love that place, and I can’t get her out of my heart!
Bill King can be reached at bkpreach@yahoo.com.
